A spinning wheel and a lump of clay can look intimidating the first time you sit down. The good news is that throwing is a set of steps, and each one gets easier with practice. Nobody centers on the first try.
This guide goes through the basics in order: getting to know the wheel, preparing your clay, throwing a simple form, trimming it and cleaning up. It's written for beginners, and it also works as a handout for students.
1. Getting to know the wheel
Wheel head
The round metal plate that spins, usually aluminum or steel. A lot of potters throw on removable bats attached to the wheel head, so they can lift a fresh pot off without squishing it. In classrooms and production studios bats are pretty much standard.
Speed control
Electric wheels have either a foot pedal or a hand dial. Part of learning to throw is learning when to change speed. Go faster for centering and slow down for shaping and detail.
Splash pan
The splash pan catches water and slurry. It keeps your studio (and your wheel) a lot cleaner.
How you sit
Your setup matters more than most beginners realize. Sit so your elbows are a little above your knees and your back stays straight. You'll have more control when you center, and your back and wrists will thank you after a long session.
2. Preparing your clay
Badly prepared clay causes problems that show up later, while you're throwing, while the pot dries, or in the kiln. A few minutes of wedging prevents most of them.
Wedging
- Spiral (shell) wedging uses a rocking, rotating motion. It compresses the clay, lines up the particles and pushes out air bubbles.
- Ram's head wedging is a repeated push-and-fold. A lot of people find it easier to control, especially with 1 to 2 lb balls.
How much clay, and how wet
For practice, start with balls of 1 to 2 lbs (about 450 to 900 g). The clay should be soft enough to move without tearing but firm enough to hold up under pressure.
A small change in moisture can make a clay feel completely different on the wheel. You'll learn to judge it by feel after a while.
3. Throwing, step by step
Step 1: Center
Centering gets the clay running true on the wheel so everything after it goes smoothly.
- Brace your elbows against your body or your legs.
- Push down and in at the same time.
- Watch the top of the clay. When it stops wobbling, you're centered.
This is the step that takes the most practice. It will click.
Step 2: Open
- Slow the wheel down.
- Press your thumbs or fingers straight down into the center.
- Leave about 3/8 inch (1 cm) of clay at the bottom for the floor.
Step 3: Pull up the walls
This is where the pot gets its height.
- Put one hand inside the wall and one outside.
- Squeeze gently and lift slowly.
- Keep an eye on the wall thickness and the overall shape as you go.
Step 4: Shape
- Use ribs, sponges and wooden tools to even out the curve.
- Compress the rim to strengthen it.
- Go easy on the water. Too much will weaken the walls.
Step 5: Cut it off
- Slow the wheel almost to a stop.
- Pull a tight wire under the pot to cut it free.
- Set it aside until it's leather hard before you trim.
4. Trimming and finishing
Trim at the leather-hard stage, when the clay is firm but you can still carve it.
Setting up
Turn the pot upside down on the wheel head and hold it in place with a few small lumps of clay. Re-center it before you start.
Trimming
With loop tools:
- Cut a foot ring.
- Take off extra weight so the pot feels balanced.
- Keep checking that it's still even all the way around.
Finishing touches
- Smooth the edges with a sponge or rib.
- Add stamps or carving if you want.
- Compress the rim once more to prevent small cracks as it dries.
Trimming is also a good time to step back and look at the form. A little more off the bottom can change how the whole pot looks.
5. Cleanup and saving clay
Cleaning up
- Clean the wheel head and tools with a damp sponge. Never sweep dry clay, because silica dust is a real health hazard.
- Empty and rinse the splash pan after every session.
Reclaiming clay
- Keep your trimmings in an airtight container.
- Re-wedge reclaimed clay before you throw with it again.
If you work with more than one clay, keep separate reclaim buckets for each clay body and firing range so they don't get mixed.
6. Common problems
Everybody runs into these:
- Not wedging enough, which leaves air pockets or layers in the clay.
- Using too much water, so the pot collapses.
- Changing speed unevenly during detail work.
- Trimming too early, before the pot is leather hard.
If you teach, it helps to fix one thing at a time instead of correcting everything at once. When you demonstrate, show one step at a time.
7. Keep practicing
Throwing gets better with repetition. The more pots you make, the more you'll understand how your clay behaves, and the more your own style will start to show up.
It also helps to keep a simple log. Write down:
- The clay body and how long it's been aged
- How wet the clay was
- Your wheel speed at each step
- When you trimmed, and the room conditions
Books worth reading
- Daniel Rhodes, Clay and Glazes for the Potter
- Frank and Janet Hamer, The Potter's Dictionary of Materials and Techniques
- Robin Hopper, Functional Pottery
For wheels, tools, clay and classroom supplies, visit sheffield-pottery.live.